Summer Survival Guide: How to Beat the Tuscan Heat in Lucca, Italy
- Ashley Campolattaro
- 5 days ago
- 9 min read
Updated: 3 days ago
Summer in Lucca can be magical. Concerts under the stars, golden sunsets from the walls, and slow strolls through town all make this a special time of year. But let’s be honest, it can also get hot in Tuscany. Very hot.
As Italy hits record temperatures, we’re back in Northern Virginia, where we’re in the middle of our own heat wave. The temperatures feel similar to what we’ve experienced during summers in Italy, with one important difference: here, we have the luxury of central air conditioning.
Temperatures in Tuscany regularly climb into the 90s°F (32 to 37°C), and during a heat wave it can feel even hotter. The good news is that Lucca has been thriving through hot summers for centuries. Locals have perfected the art of slowing down, seeking shade, and embracing the rhythm of the season.
Years ago, when our kids were younger and school and swim team schedules dictated our travel calendar, we almost always visited Italy during the hottest weeks of summer. We quickly learned that enjoying Italy in July and August is not about trying to beat the heat, but about adapting to it.
Now, we have the freedom to travel during the shoulder seasons, when the weather is more moderate and the rhythm of daily life in Italy feels different in all the best ways. But, if you are planning a trip to Lucca during the summer, these are the strategies we recommend to stay cool while making the most of your trip...
Step Inside the Walls
Most visitors head to the top of Lucca's famous walls, but one of the city's best-kept secrets lies beneath them.
The passageways inside the massive walls are noticeably cooler, thanks to the thick stone that creates a naturally air-conditioned effect. It's a peaceful escape from the midday heat.
There are several access points beneath the walls, including one with an exhibit chronicling their history. It's worth a visit if you're curious about how they evolved over the centuries.
Cool Escapes in Lucca's Churches
Lucca is known as the “City of 100 Churches,” and stepping inside one can be one of the best ways to escape the summer heat. Their thick stone walls, soaring ceilings, and centuries-old construction keep the interiors naturally cool, offering a quiet, shaded refuge from the Tuscan sun.
Of course, they’re absolutely worth visiting for their beauty alone, but they also offer a welcome break from the heat. Several churches have towers you can climb for spectacular views over Lucca. If you’re up for the sweaty climb, you’ll be rewarded with sweeping views and a welcome breeze at the top. On especially hot days, though, it’s worth saving those climbs for the cooler morning hours or another day when the sun isn’t quite so intense.
Walk or Bike on the Walls Early or Late
Lucca's tree-lined walls are one of the city's greatest treasures, but timing is everything during the summer.
Head up early in the morning before the temperatures rise, or wait until the evening when the sun begins to set. This is the perfect time for a leisurely bike ride or an Italian passeggiata, the beloved evening stroll that locals enjoy daily.
Take Advantage of Lucca's Museums
When the afternoon heat becomes too much, head indoors and explore some of Lucca's museums.
A few favorites include:
Palazzo Mansi, a beautifully preserved noble residence filled with art and elegant interiors.
Domus Romana Lucca, where you can explore the remains of an ancient Roman home beneath the modern city.
Palazzo Pfanner, known for its stunning Baroque gardens and historic mansion.
The Puccini Museum, dedicated to Lucca's most famous composer.
Not only are these wonderful cultural experiences, but they're also a great excuse to cool off for a while.
Eat Light During the Day
Summer is the perfect excuse to enjoy Italy's incredible fresh ingredients.
While hearty Tuscan classics like a plate of traditional tordelli lucchesi are absolutely worth trying, lunch on a sweltering afternoon may not be the best time. Save the rich pasta dishes for dinner when the temperatures have cooled.
Instead, choose lighter meals such as fresh salads, caprese, prosciutto and melon, seafood, or a panino. You'll feel better exploring afterward, and you'll still have plenty of room for gelato (priorities!).
Find Shade
When dining outdoors, it is worth looking for restaurants that offer natural or built-in shade, such as umbrellas, mature trees, or even cooling misters, all of which can make a noticeable difference during the hottest part of the day. If you prefer to eat inside, it helps to know that indoor air conditioning in Italy is often more moderate than what many visitors expect, so you likely won't experience a blast of cold air when you enter a restaurant!
Eat Gelato. Repeat as Needed.
Need another excuse for gelato? Italian gelato is typically made with more milk and less cream than American ice cream, and it contains less air, which gives it a dense, rich texture. It often feels lighter and less heavy, making it the perfect way to cool down and beat the heat during a hot Italian afternoon.
If the heat is especially intense, try a granita instead. This treat is super refreshing on a hot afternoon. Thankfully, you don't have to go far to find gelato in Lucca!
Insider secret: Grab a gelato from I Gelati di Piero on Via Santa Croce, then snag a spot on one of the benches directly across the street. Every time the automatic doors at OVS open, a refreshing blast of air conditioning will waft your way!
Also, while we're on the topic, you may want to consider taking a gelato making class!
Move Slowly
One of the best ways to enjoy Lucca in the summer is to stop rushing.
The city wasn't designed to be checked off a list. Wander down quiet side streets, linger over coffee, browse local shops, and spend extra time in the piazzas.
The slower you move, the more you'll notice and the more enjoyable the experience becomes.
Recharge with an Italian Pausa
One of the biggest mistakes visitors make is trying to sightsee nonstop from breakfast until dinner.
Instead, follow the local rhythm.
After lunch, head back to your apartment or hotel for a pausa. You won't be missing much since a lot of things close during this time anyhow! Read a book, enjoy a nap, or simply relax during the hottest hours of the day, usually between 2:00 and 5:00 p.m. You'll have much more energy to enjoy Lucca's vibrant evenings when the city comes alive again.
Stay Hydrated!
One of Lucca’s most underrated features is its network of public drinking fountains throughout town.
Bring a reusable water bottle and refill it throughout the day with fresh, cool drinking water. Bottled water is easy to find, but when in Lucca, do as the locals do and use the fountains instead, staying hydrated while also cutting down on plastic waste.
Cool Off at the Serchio River
While swimming pools aren't so abundant in Lucca, many visitors don't realize that the Serchio River, just outside the city walls, offers a refreshing escape.
There are small gravel beaches and calm spots where locals often cool off during the summer. While it's not a traditional beach destination, it's a relaxing place to quickly dip your feet.
Take a Day Trip to the Beach
When the temperatures soar, the coast is closer than you might think.
Viareggio is only about a 20-minute train ride from Lucca and offers long sandy beaches, refreshing sea breezes, and plenty of beach clubs where you can rent chairs and umbrellas for the day.
Sand Not Your Thing?
If you'd rather trade sand for mountains, head about 50 minutes north of Lucca to Bagni di Lucca. Spend the day at Villa Ada, a historic swimming pool surrounded by greenery, cool off in one of the natural swimming spots along the Lima River, or indulge in a relaxing spa day at Bagni di Pisa. It's a wonderful way to escape the heat while experiencing a quieter, more relaxing side of Tuscany.
Want to Take a Dip?
Take that 20-minute train ride to Viareggio. I know, I know... you’re thinking, “I don’t want a beach day.” But hear me out. Many of Viareggio’s beach clubs offer more than just rows of umbrellas and lounge chairs. You can spend the day by a pool overlooking the sea, enjoy the breeze coming off the water, and, in many cases, have a great restaurant just steps away. It’s a refreshing escape that feels a world away from the heat of the city.
Escape to the Hills
The higher elevation of Lucca's hills means temperatures can sometimes be several degrees cooler than the city center. Spend an afternoon visiting a local winery, enjoying a leisurely tasting on a shaded terrace, or exploring charming hill towns surrounded by vineyards and olive groves.
What to Wear
During peak summer heat in Lucca, what you wear can make a big difference in how comfortable your day feels. Lightweight, breathable fabrics like linen and cotton are ideal, along with loose-fitting clothing that allows air to circulate. Light colors help reflect the sun rather than absorb it, and a wide-brimmed hat or cap is essential for shade when walking through the city’s open piazzas and sun-exposed streets. Comfortable walking shoes are also a must, since Lucca is best explored on foot, even in the heat. If you plan to visit churches or dine indoors, it is worth carrying a light layer, but otherwise the goal is simple: stay cool, covered, and comfortable while embracing the rhythm of a slow summer day.
Level Set Your Air Conditioning Expectations
Air conditioning in Italy can feel quite different from what many travelers are used to. In fact, there are regulations in place that limit how much energy buildings can use for cooling, and even hotels may have governors or preset controls on in-room AC units. The goal is efficiency rather than extreme cooling, which means rooms are designed to stay cool rather than ice cold. If you try setting the thermostat below about 22°C (around 72°F), it will not cool the room any faster and can actually make the system work less efficiently.
Central air conditioning is rare in Italy, especially in historic homes and older apartment buildings, because they were never designed for ducted systems. Thick stone walls, centuries-old construction, and preservation rules in historic centers make installing central air either impractical or not allowed. Instead, most homes rely on individual split units.
When we bought our apartment in Lucca, adding air conditioning splits was a priority for us. Honestly, we have spent way too much time, energy, and money thinking and talking about how to cool our home effectively!
Take a look around and you will notice that Italian homes are often completely closed up during the heat of the day, with windows shut and shutters drawn. It is a simple but effective strategy. It is much more effective to work with the system rather than against it, and keeping windows and shutters closed during the hottest part of the day can make a significant difference, especially in older stone buildings.
Once those thick walls heat up, they can be difficult to cool back down, so prevention is key. It is far easier to maintain a comfortable temperature than to try to recover from a fully heated space.
This is something we have learned through experience. In an effort to keep our energy bills down, we followed what we thought was sound advice and used to turn the AC splits off whenever we left home. Not only did our bills not show any real savings, but we were coming back to an apartment that felt hotter and took much longer to cool down again. Lesson learned.
That said, this approach can sometimes work during cooler times of the year when indoor temperatures are easier to manage. In the peak of summer heat, especially in older stone buildings, it is far more effective to keep the system running at a steady, moderate level so the space does not have to recover from extreme heat buildup each time you return home.
If you are staying in a rental property, the host should explain how the system works and share helpful tips for getting the most out of it. It is worth paying attention, since systems can vary quite a bit from one place to another.
Follow the Local Rhythm
The secret to enjoying Lucca in the summer isn't avoiding the heat. It's learning to work with it.
Explore early in the morning. Enjoy a leisurely lunch. Take a proper pausa. Head back out as the city begins to cool. End the evening with a passeggiata along the walls and, of course, one more scoop of gelato. That's how locals have been doing summer for generations.
